There are two parts to this: first up I’ll show you how to work out the most efficient shape for your bed (fyi not necessarily a rectangle and defo not a square!), and then we get down to the business of getting it ready for cropping.
In my huge relatively flat vegie patch, new beds were easy – hello rectangles! Starting from the southern edge, in front of the greenhouse I added a few new beds each year. Mulched paths joined them altogether because a grass free vegie patch makes for an easy life.
In small gardens and awkward shaped spaces rectangles aren’t always the best shape. Rather than being attached to a prescribed shape, its better to just fill every available sunny space up. My fav way to work it out is to play around with hoses or ropes to find a shape that:
- makes the very best use of spaces that are year round sunny from at least 10am – 2pm (as a rough guide, not a rule)
- provides just enough comfortable working access right where it’s needed so you never have to step on the bed. Not too much path though – more cropping room is better!
- uses all the space – rectangles often end up with odd weedy strips around the edges that don’t get used.
Your garden out has a big impact on work load, and it can also increase fertility – for free! Here are 5 design patterns to inspire you. Make good use of any shady edges by planting perennial companions and creating compost bins, both enhance the vegie patch by bringing stability and fertility.
Mark out the beds
Vegie gardens don’t have to be raised beds – read my thoughts here before going to the expense and effort, chances are, you’ll do better without them. Nor are squares the greatest because you have to climb onto the soil to reach the crops at the centre. And that’s a big no-no. We want our feet and knees on the path – vegies only in the bed.
A simple mock up with a hose or rope, brings clarity, and then trialling the access confirms your choice.
The blue lines in the photo above are the edges of existing gardens. These are my starting point. Beginning from the outside edges helps ensure you don’t end up with wasted space.
So, from your starting edge leave space for a mulched path. 300mm is roughly what I use for comfy access without wasting too much space. You use the size that best suits you.
Then use your hose to mark out the remaining space – mine has ended up as a tear drop type shape. Odd yes, but I’ll get loads more cropping here than if I’d made one rectangle in the middle.
The teardrop is too wide in a few spots, for me to easily reach the centre from the surrounding path so I need a few little “jetties” or keyhole paths for access.
To work them out, I kneel and reach out in a pretending-to-garden-way. The 2 little paths I decided on, are drawn in yellow.
I like to leave the mock up in place for a few days to try it out and ponder it a bit more. For heaps more details + ideas checkout my Edible Backyard book, pgs 68 – 83.
Clear the ground
You’ve got a few options here. You can either:
- lever the weeds out with a fork, using a fork means you aren’t disturbing the soil too much. Don’t turn and churn, just slide the fork in to aerate the soil and release the roots, then shake off as much soil as poss and pile the weeds into a compost – apart from runner grasses, vining weeds or determined fellas like buttercup or dock whcih need to be drowned in a lidded barrel or turned to sludge in a sealed black plastic bag.
- build a no-dig bed right on top – this is my fav way to start, takes time I know but what a win! Most weeds will melt back into the soil beneath a compost – let common sense prevail – the same ones that wont compost safely wont melt either.
- smother them with black plastic, this suits really determined weeds like couch or convulvulus and intensely strong grasses. Slash the weeds right back, then cover the area with black plastic, and weight the edges. Leave the cover in place until the weeds have relinquished their grip on the soil and can easily be levered out with a fork.
Waiting sucks – I know, but just hunker down and do it. You’ll be plenty glad later when you aren’t managing those weeds amongst your vegies, nor eating herbicide residue if you decide spraying is a handy dandy shortcut (yeah, nah). While you wait patiently for the weeds to melt back into the soil, grow vegies + herbs in containers. (Are you sure there’s no where else to put your vegie garden?!)
Aerate clay soil
This mission, is for clay soils alone. If you’re on sand, stand down – you have more than enough air already! Clay however, needs it – what a difference when you crank open those tight soils.
Using a fork or forksta, slide it into the soil as far as it can go, and then pull it back towards you – Marco shows you how in the video above. Repeat this action all over the bed, working from one end to the other without standing on your newly liberated soil. Repeat once a season, or before every heavy feeder crop until your soil is sorted and the worms + biology are doing the aerating for you.
Spread compost or make a compost pile
If you have homemade compost at the ready, spread a fine layer over top. Be careful using bought compost.
There are two other options: greencropping or making a compost pile on the cleared area which is the very best option for sandy, dry soils. Both are detailed in the article below and both take time …. more waiting – gosh it’s such a patience game isn’t it!, but they lay a strong foundation for all your crops ever after. A good beginning is the secret sauce.
