October in the Greenhouse

greenhouse tomatoes planted amongst saladings ediblebackyard nz

There’s a gradual take over happening in the October greenhouse as new crops of tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, courgette, cucumber dwarf beans + basil are planted out amongst finishing winter salads, bok choy, spinach + celery.

  • Peppers and aubergines need to go in fairly soon – they take ages to produce in my climate and I only do the one planting. I have better production planting them into buckets or containers rather than in ground – they are warmer this way.
  • A row of climbing beans + a couple of courgettes go in now, but by Dec its too hot and the next lot are planted outside.
  • Cucumbers and tomatoes, can be successionally planted a few times, until January perhaps. Weather and appetite dependent.

Get a living mulch on the go

Bishops flower and climbing beans in the greenhouse
Bishops flower and climbing beans in the greenhouse

Companion plants to draw predatory wasps, hoverflies and bees, are important in the greenhouse for bug control and pollination. Find as many opportunities to supply nectar, as you can. Something near the door is a grand plan, both outside and in.

  • Bishops flower winds through the passionfruit and the climbing beans to assist pollination.
  • Phacelia, borage and calendula survive all but the hottest months in my greenhouse. They bring in the bees, the cheer, and nourish the soil.
  • African Marigold and Shoofly help deter pests above and below ground and feed the bees as well.
  • Nasturtiums are another key player – winding through the lemongrass, under the grape, around all the edges and up the walls as far as I’ll let her, providing a catch crop for aphids and piles of mulch material.
  • Nourishing chickweed and cleavers thrive in spring but die off when it heats up, recycling all their goodness back.

I rely on these guys to keep the soil active, beat out weeds and moderate soil temperature in this hot space. When they get too bossy I simply break them off and pile them on the soil as mulch. Chop and drop mulching is a quick easy job that beats weeding any day.

The greenhouse fills for the season - crops rise out of covercrops, flowers for bees and parasitic wasps.
Crimson clover, phacelia, borage, marigold, chickweed and calendula cover the soil in the greenhouse – moderating soil temperature, bringing bees and parasitic wasps, improving mineral exchange and holding back weeds.

As I need to, I create spaces to plant into, by chopping back the living mulch and using it as mulch. As the crops grow and fill the space I chop back more and more until come January the jungle is mostly tomatoes, marigolds, peppers, eggplants, basil and cucumbers instead.

Topping up your mulch regularly with fresh material is a simple but hearty way to look after your greenhouse soil. How efficient (and we could say resilient) to use the stuff that grew there to do this job. Full circle.

Watering Tips

Take care, not to over water during cold snaps. In cold weather, plants don’t evaporate, so dont need the hydration, and summer crops like tomatoes and cucumbers would rather be a little dry around their toes when the weather cools, than wet.

The right amount of water, delivered at the right time makes a huge difference to plant health. Here’s all my top watering tips.

Get used to feeling your soil first to decide whether or not you need to water. There really is no shortcut or device as good as your own assessment.

Comments

  1. Thanks for the info Kath. Your green house looks awesome. I’m hoping to build something like this. What a paradise you have created

    • Nice to hear from you Kate! I highly recommend a greenhouse 🙂 worth the effort for sure not only for all the food it brings but a warm, cosy escape… girl shed!!

  2. Sue McConnell says

    Thanks for your wonderful website, full of such practical tips!
    Just wondering if you need to stake or use a frame for dwarf french beans?
    Also, do bush type tomatoes need staking to stop them flopping over? I have lost a couple where the delicate stems snapped from folding over.

    • A stake is always useful if they flop over and in general where the weight of the crop pulls the plant over. For dwarf beans, I push a stake in at each end of the row and loop string around the stake and then the outside of the row of beans and again around the stake at the other end, holding the whole crop gently upright.

      • Sue McConnell says

        Thanks Kath, I will get on to this straight away to save any further damage due to these winds we have been having.

  3. I love to see what pops up voluntarily in my garden and with your encouragement I’m now leaving it until I recognise it and need the space. Also leaving some to gob to seed to be sure to see them back next year. Such a great way to garden🙂

  4. Ruth Elizabeth Harrison says

    Hi Kath, I remember from one of your blogs you mentioned that you like to grow tansy. Can you please tell me if this is the yellow or the purple flower please? I have just bought a pot of the yellow flower. I read it is best to grow it in a pot if you don’t want it to spread like crazy. Now I’ve just read about the purple tansy and wondered if this has a similar effect. Thanks
    Ruth

    • Hi ruth. I love them both! Tansy proper, aka bachelor buttons – cute yellow button flowers, the awesome herbal companion that spreads madly on free draining soils ( no problem at all on my clay base) is very different to purple tansy flower aka phacelia which is an annual and one of my must have summer companions. High in nectar like borage, the bees love it and it does wonderful things to soil. I scatter it amongst vegies – its soft foliage winds through. I let it self seed. Its easily removed when its not wanted. Great for compost and mulch too.

      • Ruth Elizabeth Harrison says

        Thanks very much Kath! I’ll put the yellow one in a pot then, as we have sandy soil, and will keep an eye out for some phacelia!!